So I found out at work that my Thanksgiving and Christmas time off is going to be super limited (yay retail), so I need to squeeze the Christmas out of every available moment. As such, I’ve already put up the Christmas tree.
Okay, so “putting up” the tree mostly just involved plugging it in, but it’s the thought that counts.
But also, Christmas craft time is upon us! And that means the Christmas section of my Etsy shop is open for business, and you can shop here! Right now I only have two things listed but you can keep checking back for more items!
Also a tutorial for the placemats is coming soon
If you’re anything like me, when you get done with a big sewing project your table looks a bit like this:
Threads and scraps everywhere!
I used to try to clean these up by wiping with my hand or with a piece of fabric, but that only knocked thread to the floor.
But alas, there’s an easier way!
That’s right. A lint roller.
If you haven’t thought of this already you’re probably hitting yourself like I was for not thinking of it sooner. Usually I only think to reach for the lint roller when I’m wearing black, but it’s a great cleanup tool.
Look at all that. It’s almost gross.
Now it’s clean and pristine!
I’m not ashamed to say I use reusable grocery bags every time I go to the grocery store (unless I forget to bring them with me). Yesterday I went to an event where they handed out fabric bags to throw your goodies in, and my first thought was “Yay another grocery bag!” My family also holds onto gift bags and reuses the same ones over and over and over again. So I thought to myself, why not sew a fabric gift bag?
A little drawstring Christmas pouch is great for small gifts, candy, ornaments, etc. It’s reusable, and the drawstring opening builds suspense by completely concealing what’s inside. And if your Christmas party is lacking anything, it’s suspense.
What you’ll need:
- A Christmas fabric
- Matching thread
- A safety pin
First I take a cut of fabric that’s about twice as long as it is wide.
I press them in half where the bottom of the bag will be, and the two free ends that meet at the top will form the opening.
My ribbon is 3/8″ wide, so I’m making the drawstring casing 1/2″ wide to allow adequate room. to make sure no frayed edges are exposed, Fold over about 1/8″ on the edge of the fabric and stitch it in place. Only one side is pictured above, but I do this on both sides of the opening.
Next I fold down 1/2″ and press to form the casing.
I stitch down the casing with a zigzag stitch to keep the edge from fraying as much. I could theoretically overlock and then straight stitch it down, but the zigzag stitch just looks more fun. And in the words of Sheldon Cooper, “What’s life without whimsy?”
Next I pin the right sides together to form the sides of the bag, and these I stitch with an overlock stitch and no seam allowance so that the stitch will line up perfectly when the edge of the casing. Make sure to leave the opening of the casing free so you can insert the ribbon!
To make the bag stand up on its own, you’ll want to sew the corners of the inside into two triangles that will lay flat against the bottom. I don’t know if there’s a science to determining how wide you want your triangles, but I make mine half the width of my pouch. My pouch is 6 inches wide, so you can see in the picture that I’m making my triangles 3 inches wide, with the side seam right in the middle. I draw a line where my gauge is measuring 3 inches and stitch right along that line, then draw a similar line on the other side and repeat.
A view from the top after I stitched my corners.
Next it’s time to insert the ribbon and make it a drawstring pouch!
I used leftover pieces of ribbon from another project that weren’t quite long enough, but you’ll want yours to be twice the width of your bag plus a couple of inches. My pouches were 6 inches wide, so I should have used 14 inch ribbons, but alas.
Affix a safety pin to the end of one of your ribbons, and insert it into one of the casings. When you reach the next opening, keep pushing the ribbon through the other side of the casing until the ribbon has come full circle.
Now you’re halfway done!
Finally, attach the safety pin to one end of your second piece of ribbon, and insert it into the other side of the opening, where your first ribbon simply continued through without stopping. You’ll again want to move the ribbon all the way through so that both ends of the same ribbon are on the same side of the opening.
And voila! You have a drawstring little pouch for Christmas. I think these would be great if you’re having a party and want to give out little goody bags, and you can make it taller or wider as you so desire!
Remember the post where I talked about how to find a stud in your wall? Well this is why I had to learn how! Each shelf has three screws to secure it to the wall, and for maximum weight capacity at least one has to be secured to a stud.
Here are a few screwing tips I learned to hang these walls.
Before you get to screwing, you’ll want to use a skinny drill bit like the one pictured above to form a little starter hole where you’re planning to drill in a screw. It’ll make the screw move into the wall more easily.
The white screw-looking object pictured above is actually a dry wall anchor. Anchors will help stabilize a screw in the wall so that it can carry more weight without pulling out a chunk of the wall. I only used anchors on screws that weren’t going into a stud. Different kinds of anchors come with different instructions, so be sure to follow yours closely!
If your screw ends up looking like the one pictured above, and no screwdriver can turn it in or out, you have yourself a stripped screw. The only choice is to take it out and put in a new one. Mine got so securely stuck I had to get out the pliers and jiggle it out!
I prayed pretty vehemently that hanging these right above my TV wouldn’t backfire terribly, but so far they’ve been safe and secure!
I took up painting as a hobby in college, because I kept thinking of paintings I’d really like to buy but didn’t exist yet. So I realized the solution to this was to paint them myself. However, I don’t quite have the dedication to the craft to make hyperrealistic paintings (besides, that’s what cameras are for), so instead I focus on abstract designs.
This painting project is extremely easy, and you can use any combination of colors that you want. So if you have a spot of empty wall you’d like to fill with something but don’t entirely know what, this is a great flexible project you can try!
The first step is to lay down your tape vertically to form columns, and then diagonally across the columns to form the chevron pattern. Your dimensions will vary based on the size of your canvas and your personal preference, and they don’t even have to be equal in size, but for my project I made the columns 2 1/2″ wide and the rows 1 5/8″ tall. Or maybe it was 1 3/8″. Oh well, not the important part.
The important part is that you remember to factor in the width of your painter’s tape when deciding on your dimensions!
In this picture you can see my evenly spaced columns. Notice that on the edges, I made sure to completely cover the edge of the canvas in tape. I do this to hold down the canvas so that when I do my sponging it stays in place even as I’m rapidly dabbing.
You can also see that the columns end a little further from the edge on the right than they do on the left. This is due to the canvas company lying to me about the dimensions of this canvas paper, and I feel horribly betrayed and will never forgive them for that. But we’ll move on.
Notice on each side of the column there’s a small pencil mark, and the diagonal piece of tape lines up with these marks.
The two marks are 1/2″ apart, but on opposite sides of the column. You can choose whatever width you want to create a deeper or more shallow angle, but I went with 1/2″ because it’s easy to remember. Make these marks wherever a diagonal line will go, remembering to alternate the direction in each column to create a zigzag line.
But one important thing to remember is to be consistent with which side of the tape you make your marks. As you can see in that picture, I laid the tape so the top edge lined up with the marks and then made sure that every time I laid down the tape I was lining up the top edge with the marks.
It can be a little confusing at first, but once you get into the pattern it’s easy. Also, if you make a mistake, painter’s tape is easy to remove and replace!
Sponging is extremely easy. To start, squirt some paint into a section of your palette. I usually choose a base color to cover most or all of the canvas, then use the other colors as accent colors. For this I decided to use a blue and a purple as base colors, and started with the blue.
Dip your sponge into the paint. You can see from the middle picture that I got a hearty glob on the sponge. Globs take longer to dry and make it hard to layer other colors, so I dabbed on the newspaper a few times to get excess paint off the sponge.
You can cover the entire surface evenly with your base color, but I choose to vary the coverage across the canvas, making the color thinner in some areas and heavier in others.
Now it’s time for the accents!
In general with acrylic paint you’ll want to layer lighter colors on top of darker colors, and do several layers because the paint will thin as it dries so lighter colors will fade into the background a little. As you can see I used varying shades of blue, pink, and purple. There doesn’t have to be any pattern or forethought, just dip & dab away until the area is covered and you’re happy with your colors.
Now just let your paint dry and then remove all of the painter’s tape.
A lot of home decor objects that are made to hang on the wall, like the wall shelves I recently bought, need to be secured to a stud to prevent falling and pulling out a piece of the wall. So if you’re planning to hang an object, you’ll need to know how to find the studs in your wall.
Just a note, when you tell people you’re having trouble finding studs it’s a good idea to clarify that you mean in your walls. It should come as no surprise that I got a lot of funny looks when I said I needed help finding a stud to hang my wall shelves.
But hopefully this post will keep you from getting put in such awkward situations.
A good starting place for finding studs is an outlet.
Outlets are typically attached to the side of a stud, so you can be pretty sure that there will be one either to the left or right of any outlet in your home. The trick is to determine which side it’s on.
One basic technique is the “knock and listen” technique, which consists of knocking on the wall and listening for the stud’s location. As I mentioned before, walls are hollow except for where a stud is, so most spots you knock will produce a hollow sound. When you hear a fuller sound, you’ve likely found a stud.
However, when I tried this method in my apartment walls I had little luck. So here’s another method I found to determine with more accuracy where your studs are located.
Start by grabbing the strongest magnet on your refrigerator.
Zigzag the magnet above the outlet, covering the areas to the left and right of the outlet. What you’re doing is looking for a nail where the wall was attached to the stud. Keep moving left and right and up and down until you feel your magnet pull.
Studs are typically 16 inches apart in modern homes, but they may be 24 inches apart. From your X, measure 16 inches to either side and find the next stud using either the knock and listen technique or your magnet. If you can’t find the next stud at 16 inches, try 24 inches instead.
Now you’re ready to have your decorations and be sure that they’re secure on your wall!