Remember the post where I talked about how to find a stud in your wall? Well this is why I had to learn how! Each shelf has three screws to secure it to the wall, and for maximum weight capacity at least one has to be secured to a stud.
Here are a few screwing tips I learned to hang these walls.
Before you get to screwing, you’ll want to use a skinny drill bit like the one pictured above to form a little starter hole where you’re planning to drill in a screw. It’ll make the screw move into the wall more easily.
The white screw-looking object pictured above is actually a dry wall anchor. Anchors will help stabilize a screw in the wall so that it can carry more weight without pulling out a chunk of the wall. I only used anchors on screws that weren’t going into a stud. Different kinds of anchors come with different instructions, so be sure to follow yours closely!
If your screw ends up looking like the one pictured above, and no screwdriver can turn it in or out, you have yourself a stripped screw. The only choice is to take it out and put in a new one. Mine got so securely stuck I had to get out the pliers and jiggle it out!
I prayed pretty vehemently that hanging these right above my TV wouldn’t backfire terribly, but so far they’ve been safe and secure!
I took up painting as a hobby in college, because I kept thinking of paintings I’d really like to buy but didn’t exist yet. So I realized the solution to this was to paint them myself. However, I don’t quite have the dedication to the craft to make hyperrealistic paintings (besides, that’s what cameras are for), so instead I focus on abstract designs.
This painting project is extremely easy, and you can use any combination of colors that you want. So if you have a spot of empty wall you’d like to fill with something but don’t entirely know what, this is a great flexible project you can try!
The first step is to lay down your tape vertically to form columns, and then diagonally across the columns to form the chevron pattern. Your dimensions will vary based on the size of your canvas and your personal preference, and they don’t even have to be equal in size, but for my project I made the columns 2 1/2″ wide and the rows 1 5/8″ tall. Or maybe it was 1 3/8″. Oh well, not the important part.
The important part is that you remember to factor in the width of your painter’s tape when deciding on your dimensions!
In this picture you can see my evenly spaced columns. Notice that on the edges, I made sure to completely cover the edge of the canvas in tape. I do this to hold down the canvas so that when I do my sponging it stays in place even as I’m rapidly dabbing.
You can also see that the columns end a little further from the edge on the right than they do on the left. This is due to the canvas company lying to me about the dimensions of this canvas paper, and I feel horribly betrayed and will never forgive them for that. But we’ll move on.
Notice on each side of the column there’s a small pencil mark, and the diagonal piece of tape lines up with these marks.
The two marks are 1/2″ apart, but on opposite sides of the column. You can choose whatever width you want to create a deeper or more shallow angle, but I went with 1/2″ because it’s easy to remember. Make these marks wherever a diagonal line will go, remembering to alternate the direction in each column to create a zigzag line.
But one important thing to remember is to be consistent with which side of the tape you make your marks. As you can see in that picture, I laid the tape so the top edge lined up with the marks and then made sure that every time I laid down the tape I was lining up the top edge with the marks.
It can be a little confusing at first, but once you get into the pattern it’s easy. Also, if you make a mistake, painter’s tape is easy to remove and replace!
Sponging is extremely easy. To start, squirt some paint into a section of your palette. I usually choose a base color to cover most or all of the canvas, then use the other colors as accent colors. For this I decided to use a blue and a purple as base colors, and started with the blue.
Dip your sponge into the paint. You can see from the middle picture that I got a hearty glob on the sponge. Globs take longer to dry and make it hard to layer other colors, so I dabbed on the newspaper a few times to get excess paint off the sponge.
You can cover the entire surface evenly with your base color, but I choose to vary the coverage across the canvas, making the color thinner in some areas and heavier in others.
Now it’s time for the accents!
In general with acrylic paint you’ll want to layer lighter colors on top of darker colors, and do several layers because the paint will thin as it dries so lighter colors will fade into the background a little. As you can see I used varying shades of blue, pink, and purple. There doesn’t have to be any pattern or forethought, just dip & dab away until the area is covered and you’re happy with your colors.
Now just let your paint dry and then remove all of the painter’s tape.
So you’re basically a beginner at sewing your own stuff, but you’ve found an awesome home decor sewing project that you can’t wait to try (might I recommend this one or this one?). You head down to the fabric store ready to buy a yard or two of the cutest fabric you can find, but the options are a bit overwhelming. How can there even be so many forms of cotton? How do you know which is the right fabric for your project?
Hopefully this post will be able to help you navigate those waters a bit.
I myself typically gravitate towards woven fabric as opposed to knit fabric. Woven fabric is easier to sew because it doesn’t have as much of a stretch as knit. I’m also biased towards cotton for no particular reason.
But when you’re choosing a fabric for your next project, here are some factors to consider:
- What are you using the fabric for? Is it an object that will be heavily used, like a seat cushion, or purely decorative like a throw pillow? You could probably guess that heavier-duty fabrics need to be used for objects that will see more wear and tear, but more delicate fabrics can be used for projects that won’t be touched often.
- Will you need to clean it often? Consider the cleaning instructions, typically written on the fabric bolt. An object like a tablecloth or placemat that will be exposed to the risk of spills and stains should be easy to clean, so you should avoid dry clean only fabrics for these projects.
- Does it match what you already have? This is important not only in terms of color, but also in terms of texture. If your style of choice for the room in question is soft and light, a heavy duty fabric will look out of place. Likewise, a piece of home decor made from lightweight quilting cotton may look cheap amidst leather furniture and rich mahogany.
- Is it easy to work with? I mentioned this earlier, but I typically choose woven fabrics as they’re less prone to stretching and distorting during sewing. You’ll also want to choose a fabric that’s of a thickness that you’re comfortable with and have the materials to sew.
If you keep these things in mind as you shop, it should be much easier to choose the fabric that will best fit your project.
Thanks for reading!
When I moved into my empty apartment in May, I was initially using a flipped-over laundry basket as a dining table. When I was able to go to Ikea and upgrade to a real table, I was pretty excited. I then got a bowl to fill with fruit to grab on my way out the door to work and to serve as decoration. But sometimes that bowl looks lonely.
So I decided to put something under that bowl that might jazz up the space a little bit. I clear the table for sewing occasionally, so a full-length table runner or table cloth would get annoying. So instead I decided to sew a small centerpiece. It’s a very easy project to do, so follow along for a guide on how to make one of your own!
What you’ll need for this super easy sewing project:
- Fabric of your choice. You can use a decorative fabric on top then a basic fabric on the bottom, match top to bottom, two different decorative fabrics, whatever you want to do!
- Drafting paper
- And all your basic sewing supplies
Using drafting paper, a pencil, and my ruler, I drew two perpendicular lines that split each other right down the middle. These were my desired length and width, plus seam allowances. So if you want one that’s 22″ long and 16″ wide, with a 1/2″ seam allowance, your lines would be 23″ and 17″.
Next I sketched a curved line to connect two ends. I chose one curve and erased the rest. It’d be near impossible to replicate this curve by hand three times and have a fully symmetrical centerpiece, so let’s do it an easier way.
Fold your paper along one line, so that your drawn curve is on the bottom layer of paper. You’ll be able to see the curve through the op layer, so trace it onto the top layer and unfold. Repeat by folding along the other line, so you have one full symmetrical shape.
Pin right sides together, but before you stitch if you’re using a curved shape like mine, it’s a good idea to mark your stitching line before you take it to the machine. Seam allowances can be pretty difficult to stick to on a curved seam, so even though this may feel tedious it will help you keep your place. For more tips on sewing on a curve, check out this helpful resource from Sew4Home.
Now all you have left to do is flip it right side out, press your seam, and slip stitch the opening shut.
This is a really easy project to do in an hour or so, and you can make several different centerpieces for different times of the year or events. Hope you enjoy!